Sohoton, the Enchanting!

Sunrise in Siargao

Bucas Grande

We only spent the night at Siargao. The next day we rented a banca to take us to Bucas Grande Island, specifically to Sohoton Bay, more than 2 hours away.  The banca arrived and picked us up just when the sun was about to rise from the horizon.  We gave Patrick's on the Beach  one last look and set sail for the next leg of our trip.  

Smaller limestone islands

Island with eroding base

Siargao is also the name of the group of islands near Siargao the island.  Each island is quite far from the next. You could see the neighboring one coming into view, but will be surprised that it takes 30 minutes to an hour to travel to it. Bucas Grande, smaller than Siargao, has been very visible since we left the main island but took about 2 hours to get to the side where Sohoton cove is. The boat ride was boring at times because it makes you anxious of what to see in the next island. But for long minutes the trip left us staring at large expanse of water ranging from crystal clear to bluish and dark green.

Limestone coastline

Bucas Grande has an interesting coast line.  It took the banca close to an hour to traverse half its perimeter.  The island was bordered with limestone cliffs and weathered smaller islands.  The limestone face peaks through lush vegetation precariously hanging from the almost vertical slopes. The greens are a mixture of fine, coarse and strappy textures.  There were large pandans, Dracaena, cycads, trees and of course the ubiquitous coconut. 

New tourism structure being built

Visitors waiting for their turn

Tourism center

We finally made a last turn behind a prominent headland before the entrance to Sohoton Bay came to view. From wavy currents, we entered calmer and crystal clear waters. The craggy silhouette of the mountains and the waterline is only interrupted by two shed structures and a score of smaller makeshift boats surrounding the tourism center. 

Clear waters with corals

The lush greens

Small caves at base of limestone formations

Sohoton Bay at first glance is already enchanting, but it was revealed to us that it still held more secrets. The tour of it brought us deeper into the bay, with river like lagoons hidden behind caves and limestone formations.  An outrigger enough to fit five of us, a boatman and 2 guides navigated through bends and corners, and ultimately through a cave (only accessible in low tide) before it opened into an inner lake enclosed by limestone walls and towers.

Hanging pitcher plants

Cave swimming

Diving

For the adventurous, they offer swimming through submerged caves and platform diving into the clean water.  I opted to content myself with what Sohoton's beauty had to offer. Filled half my memory disc with numerous pics of the fascinating landscape and of course, the accompanying flora.

To the jellyfish lagoon

Limestone walls of jellyfish lagoon

entrance has strong current

But Sohoton still had another treat in store for us. We transferred to smaller bancas, only accommodating one passenger and a boatman.  I was paired with Bryan, a small fellow, who paddled my boat through small passage into another equally beautiful lagoon. Since I am bigger than my companions, Bryan had difficulty navigating me and my itsy-bitsy boat through the narrow and shallow pass. Water had a slight current making it more challenging.

Prominent coral formations

Albert holding a jellyfish

Brown jellyfih on a paddle

But once we got through the ordeal, the tight corridor opened up into a grand view, appearing like a natural cathedral.  The mountainous limestone cliffs echo the solemn sound of bird calls. I was still getting amazed by the overlapping symphony of trees and palms, Bryan was strongly pointing out to me to look into the water. In it are numerous jellyfish swimming close to the surface.

Minnie trying to feel the slimy but not stinging invertebrate

The brown jellyfish are about the size of a fist.  They gracefully open and contract, appearing like they are floating on air. Bryan said to touch them because they dont sting like their open water counterparts.  I did and held the soft cold gelatinous body. I only felt the slime sliding through my hand.

Brown jellyfish close up

Leaving the lagoon

It was only past 11 am when we returned back to the tourist center.  We alighted our rented banca again to bring us out from Sohoton Bay and eventually Bucas Grande into Hayonggabon in Surigao Norte. We were back in mainland Mindanao.  We left the Siargao group of islands  with memories of 2 days living the slow sweet life in the islands.  In the course, I reached Cloud Nine and visited one of the best places I have been in the country and the whole world.  But our adventure down south was not yet done...

Lucky Fingers Welcoming Us

Port of Dapa in Siargao Island

Friend pinky looking at the profuse blooms

Flanking terminal office

Bushy specimen

Quick Post: In Dapa Port of Siargao, we were greeted by this rare sight: a galamay-amo or Schefflera odorata in bloom.  The common native plant is regarded by gardeners as a lucky plant depending on  the number of leaflets in a whorl spray, sometimes referred to as six, seven or eight fingers.   A bushy specimen was growing lush on the cyclone fence of the terminal office. It was flowering profusely despite the harsh conditions of coastal growth.  

Flower detail

I see the galamay amo a lot in lowland forests and yes, a lot of times near the beach.  But this is the first time for me to see it in full boom, but cultivated.  It means it could be made to flower in lowland growth but i wonder if it could be grown this attractive in Manila.  I will buy a cultivated specimen once I see one sold in Centris. Hope i could get it to bloom like this.

Reaching Cloud Nine

The fast craft left Surigao City at 11 am and arrived at 2 pm in Dapa

Rey in Jheviel's tricycle

The Siargao landscape

At 11 am we rode a fastcraft (makeshift boat with outrigger) to reach Siargao Island.  At 2 pm we reached the port of Dapa and it was drizzling.  We had no idea what we are going to do next but the tourism office at the port was very helpful, giving us the option of what to visit and where to stay.  Minnie also made arrangements regarding our impending trip to Bucas Grande the following morning.

The huts where we stayed

Patrick's on the Beach

Signage bearing namesake

We met a friendly tricycle driver Jheviel, who volunteered to be our guide in the island.  All five of us friends, with our supposedly light-packed bags, alighted his six-seater.  Surprisingly we all fitted, with me getting the premium seat in front. My tightly bigback getting a spot on the trike's GI roof. With a quick stop to fill up the tricycle's tank with gasoline, we made the 30 minute ride going into General Luna town to where the nearest beach resorts are. We chose Patrick's on the Beach, not because of the resort's owner is a namesake, but because it had rustic looking cottages with airconditioned rooms, at very reasonable prices. 

Patrick's on the Beach's dining area

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After unloading our heavy bags, Jheviel whisked us away to Surf Side and eventually the surfers' sought-after Cloud Nine. The place had a lot of mushrooming resorts, surprisingly some having obvious hints of tasteful design.  Surf Side may have the beginnings of another Boracay.  I am just hoping that it won't go that way as honestly, I feel Boracay is now not very much different than the developments of any Metro Manila suburb (like Paranaque or Las Pinas) because of congestion. 

Cloud Nine!

The deserted Cloud Nine beach

View from the viewing deck closer to the beach

The far viewing deck

I love General Luna's and Surf Side's sleepy town ambience.  The after hours still consists of drowning away your worries with a bottle of beer, a plateful of inihaw and exchanging engrossing stories.  No apparent rave parties yet...whew!

Boardwalk leading to the far tower

Bantigue stand

Cloud nine, on the other hand, is a revelation.  For someone like me who is neither a surfer nor a beach bum, I find the place's character enthralling. The beach was bare and deserted which made me wonder where the surfing aficiondaos were. They were apparently a few hundred meters off the coast in open water, riding their tusted surf boards.  In the midst of the cove was a very long boardwalk leading to two quaint structures, mere gazebos to watch and gaze at the people attempting to catch their perfect wave.  The farthest structure, three-storeys high, gives multiple angles of every surfer's attempt.

The tower cum view deck

View beyond tower

Surfers a hundred meters from the tower

Waiting for their wave

I was expecting that we will stay a few minutes to have our pictures taken on the boardwalk.  We ended up staying much longer, amazed at how the serious surfers were twisting their bodies and limbs, and manipulating their boards to achieve their greatest adventure high. 

Catching cloud nine

View of boardwalk from second floor of tower

From third level

Our sutokil dinner

That night we went back to Patrick's to enjoy a sumptuous Sutokil (sugba, towa and kilaw), wih my friends buying the tuna and other ingredients in the local market.  We asked the resort's cook prepare the dinner for us at a small fee. The meal was excellent! It was a perfect way for us to end our Siargao day while listening to the next table's (British guys) banters of how they caught their perfect wave.  It was our version of cloud nine sans mounting an actual surf board.  But reaching  true heaven was still in store ahead of us...

Racing to the Other End of Mindanao, to Surigao!

Surigao baywalk

The pier is where boats going to Siargao island are docked  

Tricyles dominate the inner parts of the city

I am in Surigao! It is my second place to visit in Mindanao. 

A few hours before the news broke out about the Cebu Pacific plane having a mishap in Davao International Airport, we touched down riding a CP plane on the tarmac of Butuan airport.  We thought we will be making our way to Tandag, in Surigao del Sur.  But last minute we were informed we will meet our friend Minnie in Surigao City, 112 kilometers from Butuan.

Recently opened McDo outlet

A van was arranged to get us from Butuan to Surigao City. The driver navigated the winding roads very quickly, and made the usually 3-hour trip in almost 2 hours. We met Minnie in the hotel and grabbed a late lunch. When we finished, we barely had time to go around but managed to walkfrom the market to our hotel via the pier.

Surigao always has the fresh catch of the day

My first impression: Surigao City is a laid-back municipality. The streets are small, crowded with tricycles and multicabs. Minnie said it was only recently that popular Manila establishments like Chowking, Jollibee and few weeks old McDonalds were introduced in the local scene. The after hours leisure we observed were taking a stroll down the pier baywalk, rummaging through ukay-ukay and of course, the common provincial past time - karaoke. At night the streets are quiet and almost empty. The lifestyle is very simple.  

My Mini Animal Craze

Replicas of the two remaining species of elephants

Tallest land animals, the giraffe

I have been writing a lot about plants but I equally love animals too.  But animals are a bit tricky to keep.  I started my serious plant collecting because I was keeping animals, fishes to be exact.  At the end of my fishkeeping, I was recreating biotopes by using plants in the aquarium.  Eventually the plants bug overcame my fish hobby. 

Polar bears, symbol of Arctuc fragility

Today I am still collecting animals, but in the form of my other craze...toys.  I was not given the patience to keep a zoo (plus to do so is complicated), so my miniature zoo is keptin the confines of my room.  My last article for Metro Home made me bring out some of my collections.  

The World Wildlife Fund mascot, the Chinese panda bear

Another endangered animal, the Asian big cat or tiger

Australian icon, the red kangaroo

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I used to buy anmal figurines and replicas from Divisoria when I was a child.  I used to keep them in a drawer.  When I was thriteen years old, I went home one day to find a few of them gone.  My dad thought I don't care for them anymore, gave them away.  I remember rebuilding that collection right after college, buying Playmobil and recently the Schleich toys.

Lion pride

Kings of the jungle

Two spotted cats, jaguar from the New World and leopard from the Old World

 My first Schleich was bought in a Target store in Florida in 2009.  I only got one tiger because they cost much.  But I wanted more.

A cast of other African savannah animals; wart hog, kudu, gazelle and ostrich

It was only recently that I discovered them again in a local toy shop, Built City, but they cost more than when I saw themin Target. So it is only once in a blue moon that I splurge to build my mini zoo. My quest continues...

Another spotted cat, the cheetah, the fastest animal with four legs

 

 

My favorite flock, zebras!

Pouncing crocodile